Jul 23, 2013

Eye Shadow Looks for Asian Eyes

     I have researched and put together five looks that compliment the shape and character of the Asian eye. The three shapes I have included are the small crease, the flat mono-lid, and the hooded eye. The small crease is common to Pacific Islanders, Chinese, and Philippine eyes. The flat mono lid or "almond-shaped" eye is another common shape. The last is the hooded eye lid, which is characterized by the extra skin around the lid. Now these are just typical shapes I have noticed from books, magazines, real faces and online. Variations do exist and I hope I am not offending anyone with my labels of the different eyes-it just makes it easier when discussing techniques.

Half & Half Technique

This technique works well on all three shapes because it helps to give definition and create a crease line. Here, I have showed this look on eyes with a small crease.

Step 1. Blend a light eye shadow along the entire eye lid. Open your eyes and finish blending the colour while looking straight into the mirror. 

Step 2. Take a darker eyeshadow and blend in small circles starting from the outer corner of your lower lash line, emphasizing the outer V.   Keep the colour darker in the outer V, blending it softly into the lighter colour. 

Step 3. With a clean fluffy brush, blend the colours together so they are seamless.  Go back in with the darker colour to add depth on the outer corner.  Keep the inner corners clean and free of product. 

Diffused Technique

This technique is ultra- flattering on almond shaped eyes. It works great as a classic smokey eye in charcoal and gray, shown here on the face chart, or with violets, navy blues or burnished copper. Play around with colour and you might surprise yourself!  


Step 1. Choose three shades a light, medium, and dark.

Step 2. Start with the darkest shade (like black) at your lash line. 

Step 3.  Blend the medium shade (gray) over-top of the black, right above the lash line, to keep it the darkest point.   Blend your lightest shade (vanilla) over-top of the gray up and out stopping around that half-way point between your brow-bone and crease. 

Blend out your work with a clean brush, gently sweeping over all three colours to get that graduation of colour from just above your lash line to your crease. Try to sweep the brush across in a linear motion, rather than in an arcing motion. This will create a flattering shape for your eye. Knowing  your
socket line is important. You want to maximize your space and keep proportions in check, so get to know your eyes, practice, and blend! 

Diffused Technique 2.0

This technique can be used on top of the diffused technique above. Just follow steps 1-3 to create a gradation of colour from dark to light.  Matte shadow will work best with this look, read the next step to find out why.


 Step 4. In the middle of your lid, apply a shimmery shade in the same colour as your medium shade and apply on top, in the centre of the lid. This will add extra dimension and make your eyes pop. Using matte shadow as your base will let the shimmery shadow catch the light and really sparkle.

You can also wear this look another way: Try using one matte shadow, like deep violet or apricot, and apply from the lash line blending up and out at the crease. The goal is to diffuse the colour as you move upward.
You can even wet the brush a little bit and apply the shadow at the lash line, for the deepest colour, and then blend upwards. Then apply your shimmery shadow in the same colour in the center of your lid. It's a pretty day look, and a great way to experiment with colour.

 Tri-Colour Eyes

This next look complements all three eye shapes I have outlined. These are guidelines and you can alter them to your taste, but remember to keep the colour contained. The bare skin balances out the lid area.


Step 1. Choose a light, a medium, and a dark eye shadow. Start with the lightest colour and apply to  the first third of your lid, starting from your inner corner.

Step 2. The medium colour fills the middle portion, and the darkest colour rounds out the corner.

Step 3. Use your outer corner as a guide and bring the shadow up on an angle. You can also use a sponge to clean off the excess and sharpen the angle.  Fan out the darker colour for a cat eye effect.  

Step 4.  Gently blend all three colours with a clean brush. Remember to keep shadow contained, and keep proportions in check, i.e. keep your eyeshadow from lash line to socket line. 


Outer "V" Technique

This last look complements all three eye shapes I have outlined. These are guidelines and you can alter them to your taste, but remember to keep the colour contained. The bare skin balances out the lid area.


Step 1. Choose two colours, one light and one dark.

Step 2. Apply the light colour from the inner corner keeping close to your lash line. Stop at the outer corner- do not extend outwards.

Step 3.  Apply the dark shadow from the outer corner to just before the mid point of your lid. Continue from the outer corner to your bottom lash line, stopping half way again.
This creates a "V" shape on the outer portion of the eye. * Do not wear this look if your eyes are really wide set, it will only emphasize this.

Don't bring the dark colour all the way across, stick to the outer third- you just want to hint at a crease, not create one fully. Be sure to blend the line out,. with a clean brush or sponge. Experiment with your eye shape!